Sightseeing of Delhi
There is so much to see and do in this city, you could spend weeks exploring.
Central New Delhi
India Hotels - Central New Delhi is where the government offices and the main commercial area is centred. Designed and built by the British architect Edwin Lutyens and his friend Sir Herbert Baker, the new capital was formally inaugurated in 1931. The Rajpath, formerly known as King’s Way, runs from west to east with the Rashtrapati Bhavan at the top of the Raisina Hill in the west and India Gate standing on the eastern end - Hotels in India.
Indin Hotel - Flanked by manicured lawns, Rajpath hosts the Republic Day celebrations in January. Down Rajpath, in the eastern end is India Gate, the war memorial designed and built by Lutyens in 1921. This 43 metre arched gateway rises on a base of light brown Bharatpur stone. It commemorates some 90,000 Indian soldiers who were killed in the first World War and thousands of British and Indian soldiers killed on the Northwest Frontier and Afghan War of 1919 - Indian Hotels Asia.
Hotels in Delhi - Under the arch is the Amar Jawan Jyoti, a memorial added on for Indian soldiers killed in the Indo-Pak war of 1971. In front of India Gate is an open cupola that originally housed a statue of King George V - Delhi Hotels.
Hotels of Delhi - Rashtrapati Bhavan, built as the Viceroy’s residence, now houses the President of India, the constitutional head of the Indian Union. This H-shaped building with its Mughal-style domes, Indian chhatris and filigree carvings along with a distinctive classical structure was designed to reflect an amalgamation of Indian styles with western architecture. Sitting on top of the Raisina Hill, the interiors of the building are closed to the public - India Hotels.
Hotels in India - At the entrance iron gates, there is a ceremonial change of guards every Saturday between 09:35 am and 10:15 am that is worth viewing. Between the inner residence and the entrance stands the 145 metre high Jaipur Column, donated by the Maharaja of Jaipur. Topped by a five-pointed glass star on a bronze lotus, the base of the column has an etching of the original plan of the new city. The Moghul Gardens, laid out in the formal style of the Muslim quadrangular pleasure gardens, has beautifully laid out parks and flowerbeds intersected by water channels and fountains. The gardens are opened to the public in February, when the winter flowers are in full bloom - Indin Hotel.
Indian Hotels Asia - On both sides of Rajpath are the Secretariats, called the North Block and the South Block. These long office blocks topped with Baroque domes, and overlaid with Indian motifs like the lotus and elephants, were built by Sir Herbert Baker. In front of the Secretariats is the Vijay Chowk (Victory crossing) where the ceremonial Beating Retreat is performed culminatingthe Republic Day celebrations - Hotels in Delhi.
Delhi Hotels - Northeast of the Rashtrapati Bhavan is the Parliament House or Sansad Bhavan. This circular building spread over more than 5 acres has high buff pillars in front and a dome concealed by an upper storey. The building is divided into three sections, housing the library, the Council of States, the Rajya Sabha and the Assembly or Lok Sabha. The library, which was originally the Council of Princes, is heavily decorated with teak panels and the coats of arms of the erstwhile Indian Royal families. It has an extensive collection of books and historical records from the 1920s - Hotels of Delhi.
India Hotels - Close to Parliament House are the Church of the Redemption and the Roman Catholic Church of the Sacred Heart, both designed by Henry Medd. The Church of the Redemption with a domed tower, curved vaults and a group of angels looking down from the curved roof of the altar, was highly favoured by Lord Irwin. The Church of the Sacred Heart, with a distinct Italianate influence, has a façade of white pillars and dark brick background. It has a towering curved roof, polished stone floors and deep arches set into the walls - Hotels in India.
Indin Hotel - On Pandit Pant Marg, off Parliament street is the Rakabganj Gurudwara. This 20th century shrine of white marble marks the place where the ninth Sikh Guru Tegh Bahadur’s body was cremated. The Guru was executed by the Mughal ruler Aurangzeb in 1657 - Indian Hotels Asia.
Hotels in Delhi - On Ashoka Road, close by, is another much revered shrine, the Bangla Sahib Gurudwara. Built of white marble and topped with a golden dome, it is a popular pilgrim spot. In the main hall inside is the shrine containing the holy Granth Sahib covered with flower petals. There is a continuous recitation from the holy book, and a free dining hall opens for visitors thrice a day - Delhi Hotels.
Hotels of Delhi - The commercial centre of Connaught Place was designed by Robert Tor Russell, chief architect of the Government of India. Originally designed in a horseshoe shape, this double storeyed arcade complex now almost completes a full circle. Divided into blocks from A to N with seven radial roads running out, the complex is surround by a radial road called Connaught Circus - India Hotels.
Hotels in India - To the south is Janpath, with the popular Tibetan market selling readymade garments, leather products, brassware, paintings and all sorts of knick-knacks. In the centre of the complex is an underground shopping area called Palika Bazaar, mostly filled with electronics goods shops. On the surface is a lawn where hawkers amble around people stretching out to catch the afternoon sun or savour the shade - Indin Hotel.
Indian Hotels Asia - On Parliament Street, just off Connaught Place is the Jantar Mantar observatory. The first of five such open-air observatories placed in other cities of India, it was built in 1725 by Maharaja Jai Singh II. Huge plastered brick sundials surrounded by palm trees were used to make astronomical calculations and update the solar and lunar calendars. The Jantar Mantar is now also a popular site for dharnas or sit-ins supporting some cause or the other - Hotels in Delhi.
Delhi Hotels - The Lakshmi Narayan Temple, also called the Birla Mandir lies west of Connaught Place. Faced with red and ochre stone and white marble on its exterior, the temple is built on several levels around a central courtyard - Hotels of Delhi.
India Hotels - The main shrine is dedicated to Lakshmi (the goddess of wealth) and Narayan (form of Vishnu).The inner walls have quotations from the holy Bhagavata Gita and the Upanishads, some of which are also translated to English. Next to the temple is a dharamshala (rest house) and a Buddhist monastery - Hotels in India.
Indin Hotel - Away from the prosperous and somewhat orderly shopping areas of Connaught Place, is the market area of Paharganj. To the west as you leave the New Delhi railway station, the Paharganj area is popular with budget tourists for its cheap hotels and eating places. Besides the travel agencies, telecommunication outlets and roadside snack stalls, Paharganj is an important trading centre. Shops here sell almost everything from furniture to locks to spices. Because of the tourist traffic however, this area is infested with unscrupulous drug dealers and touts - Indian Hotels Asia.
Hotels in Delhi - Leaving New Delhi, as one proceeds on the Ring Road are the ruins of Firoz Shah Kotla. The most remarkable structure in this citadel complex is the 3rd century BC polished sandstone Ashoka column. A circular baoli (step well) and the ruins of a great mosque can be seen next to the pillar. To the south of the Firoz Shah Kotla is the exhibition ground or Pragati Maidan where international and Indian fairs and exhibitions are hosted during winter - Delhi Hotels.
Hotels of Delhi - Beyond Delhi Gate the River Yamuna is fringed by several ghats or landings, which were originally used for bathing and washing clothes. This waterfront has now been developed into a line of memorials for prominent post-independence national leaders who were cremated here. Raj Ghat is the memorial to Mahatma Gandhi, assassinated just after independence in 1948. Alongside Raj Ghat are Shanti Vana, the memorial of Jawaharlal Nehru, Shakti Sthala for Indira Gandhi, Vijay Ghat for Lal Bahadur Shastri and the memorials of Sanjay Gandhi and Rajiv Gandhi. Opposite Raj Ghat is the Gandhi Memorial Museum displaying photographs, writings and articles associated with Mahatma Gandhi. Every Sunday, there is a special screening of a film on his life - India Hotels.
Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad)
Hotels in India - Further northwards along the western bank of the Yamuna, you arrive at the 17th century city of Shahjahanabad, known as Old Delhi. The walls of the city spread over 7 miles, enclosing the Lal Qila (Red Fort), the Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque), Chandni Chowk and the residential quarters. Once the power centre of the Mughal empire with wide streets, waterways and lively bazaars, old Delhi has now degenerated into an overcrowded cluster of shops and dilapidated houses. The roads cannot take the increasing volumes of traffic, ranging from cars to cycle rickshaws, to motorcycles and hand-drawn carts. Though shorn of its original glory, the old city does carry a charm that seeps in if you are ready to withstand the noise and jostling - Indin Hotel.
Indian Hotels Asia - Standing on the banks of the River Yamuna, the huge red sandstone Lal Qila or Red Fort was built between 1639 and 1648 by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. Modelled on the Agra Fort, the opulent fort is said to have cost 10 million rupees - Hotels in Delhi.
Delhi Hotels - Entering through the three-storey Lahori Gate, you will come to the booking office that sells entry tickets and provides guides. Inside, the Chatta Chowk or covered bazaar has arched cells that originally housed shops selling gems, jewellery, carpets, silks, brocades and velvet for the royal inhabitants. Now there are some souvenir shops. Beyond the archway is a small restaurant, and to the left a museum run by the Archaeological Survey of India. The Swatantrata Sangram Sangrahalaya (Museum of Freedom Struggle) exhibits photographs, paintings and maps focusing on the independence movement. Going past the military barracks on the left, you reach the Naubat Khana (Drum House). Here everyone except the royal princes had to dismount from their horses and approach the inner quarters on foot. Music was played from the Naubat Khana five times a day. An orchestra of nagara (kettledrums), shehnai (ceremonial wind instrument) and cymbals performed in praise of the Emperor - Hotels of Delhi.
India Hotels - A path running down east through extensive lawns reaches the Diwan-I-Am or Hall of Public Audience. This long pillared hall on a raised platform was originally plastered with a thin white coating on which floral motifs were painted. Silk carpets, tapestries and heavy curtains embellished the interiors, where the emperor would appear to hear grievances and administer justice to his subjects. In the western wall is a high platform that housed the emperor’s marble throne - Hotels in India.
Along the eastern wall of the fort overlooking the river are the palaces or living quarters. The sprawling gardens on the western side were used for animal fights to entertain the royal inhabitants. Designed in the Islamic charbagh pattern (gardens of Paradise), the gardens had pavilions, fountains and water channels running through. East of the Diwan-I-Am is the Rang Mahal or Palace of Colours, used by the wives of the emperor. Divided into six compartments, the palace had mosaics of mirrors, and ceilings painted and elaborately decorated with gold and silver inlay work. A central lotus pool had an ivory fountain while a cool stream of water flowed through the chambers.
The Mumtaz Mahal, south of the main zenana, was also used by the royal princesses. Now it houses a museum which exhibits textiles, weapons, carpets, elaborately carved chess sets, metalwork and other items used in the royal court. The Khas Mahal was the emperor’s personal palace, with separate enclosures for praying, sleeping and sitting. The Tosh Khana or Robe Room has an exquisitely carved marble filigree screen on the north wall. A Scale of Justice is outlined in the screen. Seen from the north side, there are suns surrounding the scales, while the view from the south makes them appear like moons.
At the Mussaman Burj or octagonal tower overlooking the Khas Mahal emperor Shah Jahan would appear every day before crowds gathered on the banks of the River Yamuna. A balcony added to this tower in 1809, was used by King George V and Queen Mary, who sat before the citizens of Delhi during the Delhi Durbar. The Diwan-I-Khas, or Hall of Private Audience, was used by the emperor to confer with his nobles.
The royal baths or Hammams had sunken tubs in the marble floor. The Hammam was divided into three apartments separated by corridors with water channels running through. Two of the apartments had hot and cold baths while the last one was a dressing room with rose water fountains. Patterns on the inlaid floor and light coming through stained glass windows created a luxurious environment in a seductive play of coloured light passing through water. Aurangzeb built the small Moti Masjid or Pearl Mosque at the northern end of the fort in 1662. Made of white marble with elaborate decorations, the mosque has fallen into a state of disrepair.
Every evening, a Sound and Light show is put up by the Delhi Tourism department at the Red Fort. The palaces and other monuments within the fort are lit up and a dramatic recount of history is presented through commentary and music. The show is presented after sunset, first in Hindi and then English with tickets priced at Rs. 10 and Rs. 20 respectively. Timings vary from summer to winter.
Facing the Red Fort to its west is the colossal Jama Masjid, or Friday Mosque. It is the largest mosque in India, accommodating up to 25,000 worshippers at one time. Designed by Shah Jahan, this grand red sandstone and white marble mosque was said to have been built by 5,000 artisans from 1644 to 1656. The broad red sandstone steps lead up to gates to the east, north and south.
Visitors should remove shoes and cover their heads, arms and legs before entering. Inside, the main prayer hall is covered with three marble domes, fronted by arches. A niche in the western wall shelters the mihrab reserved for the prayer leader.
In the centre of the vast courtyard is the Hauz or tank, which is used by devotees to wash their face, hands and feet before prayer. In the north-eastern corner of the mosque is a white shrine that houses relics of Prophet Mohammad. Shrouded in rose petals, a small fee will enable you to see a hair from the Prophet’s beard, his sandals, sections of the Koran written on deerskin by his relatives and a footprint embedded in rock. Two minarets in the corners rise up to provide a panoramic view of the whole city, worth visiting for a fee of ten rupees.
Bang opposite the entrance to the Red Fort is the red sandstone Digambar Jain temple. The oldest Digambar Jain temple in Delhi, it was built in 1526 with later modifications. The temple is dedicated to the 23rd Jain Tirthankara Parshvanath. The temple has elaborate carvings and gilded painting on the walls. Remove your shoes and hand over all leather items at the counter outside the entrance.
A curious extension to the temple is a bird hospital within its courtyard. Following the tenet of non-violence and compassion towards all living beings, rich Jains buy injured /trapped birds from all over the city and bring them for recovery at the hospital. Next to the Jain temple is a Hindu shrine, with a lingam (phallic symbol of Shiva) believed to be 800 years old. The Gauri-Shankar temple has idols of Shankar or Shiva and his consort Gauri in addition to the stone lingam encased in silver.
Chandni Chowk,or the silver path was once a glittering market street with a waterway running down its centre and noblemen and ladies passing down the streets to savour its wealth. Today, though it remains a bustling trading area, much of its gloss has gone. The shops crowd over each other, people jostle with cycle rickshaws and scooters on the streets and the central canal has long been shut. Nevertheless, wandering into the alleys and bylanes off main Chandni Chowk, you will come across shops and markets of all kinds, selling jewellery, bridal wear, books, spices, sweetmeats, dry fruits, electronic goods, and many more things.
The Kinari Bazaar sells wedding gear for all communities, from garlands of rupee notes to the groom’s turban and silk robes for the bride. At Dariba Kalan, be dazzled by rows of shops displaying finely crafted gold jewellery, while at the Naya Bazaar in Khari Baoli, smell the strong oriental fragrances of spices, dried fruits and medicinal herbs. At the base of the Jama Masjid is the crowded Meena Bazaar, which caters mainly to the Muslim population in the area. The Nai Sarak is lined with 19th century and 20th century houses, whose lower portions have shops selling books and stationery, while the Chor Bazaar (Thieves Market) along the eastern wall of the Red Fort sells used/stolen goods in an unimaginable variety. The wholesale fish and poultry market that supplies to all of Delhi is also tucked away in this area.
Further north is the Kashmiri Gate area, built by the British around 1835. The main inter-state bus terminus of Delhi is close to the Kashmiri Gate. On the opposite side stands Qudsia Bagh (garden), commissioned in the mid-18th century by the mistress of Emperor Muhammad Shah. Parts of the garden were later taken over by the British Freemason Society. Mother Teresa’s Missionaries of Charity runs an orphanage nearby.
The Nicholson Cemetery, named after John Nicholson who led the British troops that fought the mutineers in 1857, is Delhi’s oldest cemetery. About a kilometre from Qudsia Bagh are the Civil Lines, which was the centre of British administration before the new capital was formally inaugurated. The Old Secretariat, now the seat of government for the Delhi State administration and the Oberoi Maidens Hotel are some of the colonial buildings that stand from those days.
South Delhi
Most of Delhi’s early settlements, including Lal Kot and the Qutb Minar complex, Tughlaqabad, Jahanpanah, Shergarh and Purana Qila are all in the southern part of modern Delhi. Over time, these cities got lost in the forests of the ridge, or swamped by later habitations. Now most of South Delhi is a posh residential area, which has stretched its boundaries far south to engulf several villages and farm lands.
13 kms south of Connaught Place on the road to Mehrauli lies the Qutub Minar Complex on the ruins of Lal Kot, the first city of Delhi. At the centre of the complex stands the Qutub Minar. The five-storeyed tower with a 14.4 metre base that tapers up to two and a half metres at the top is visible for a long distance around. Built mainly of red sandstone, the fifth storey of the Minar was restored by Firoz Shah Tughlaq in 1369 who used contrasting elements of marble. x
The sides have inscriptions of Koranic verses and praises to its builders. Leading up to the top is a narrow winding staircase now closed to the public after several suicide attempts and incidents of stampede. The Quwwat-ul-Islam (Might of Islam) mosque, completed in 1198, was the first mosque to be built in India. Using remains of 27 Hindu and Jain temples that had been destroyed by Qutb-ud-din’s army, the mosque also reflects technique used by traditional Indian artisans, especially in the detailed masonry and corbelled arches. Steps lead up to the courtyard with decorative Hindu pillars and ornamental arches marking the prayer hall. The focal point of the mosque is the carved sandstone screen which is an amalgamation of Indian and Islamic motifs. Along with Koranic calligraphy, the carvings incorporate the lotus motif, with the western façade facing Mecca.
In the courtyard of the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque stands a 7-metre high iron pillar, from the 4th century Gupta period. Almost completely rust-free, this 98% pure iron pillar continues to be a puzzle for metallurgists. A popular tradition says that a person standing with back to the pillar and encircling it with his hands has any wish granted.
The Alai Darwaza, built in 1311 by the ambitious Ala-ud-din Khilji, is an 18-metre high sandstone gateway with lattice screens. It is ornamented with geometric and floral designs, with marble inlay work that reflects the craftsmanship of artisans from Turkey. Near the south entrance of the Qutb complex is the Ala’i Minar, planned by Ala-ud-din Khilji to surpass the magnitude of Qutb Minar. However, only the first storey could be completed before Khilji died and the project was abandoned.
The tomb of Iltutmish, built in 1235, is the first Muslim mausoleum in India. It was an unusual feature in those times, since Hindus cremate their dead. The plain exteriors and triple-arched doorway leads into a square inner chamber. Using a combination of Muslim and Hindu styles, the doorway is decorated with arabesque patterns and calligraphy along with the lotus and wheel motif. A dome covering the sandstone chamber collapsed due to imperfect building techniques, and pieces of it can be seen lying in the courtyard.
Southwest of the mosque is an L-shaped complex with Ala-ud-din-Khilji’s tomb and a madrasa (Muslim seminary). To the south east of the Ala’i Darwaza is the tomb of the 16th century Sufi saint Imam Zamin. The saint came to India from Turkestan during the rule of Sikandar Lodi. The octagonal tomb with jali screen decorations is typical of the Lodi buildings.
About 4 kms southeast of Connaught Place, and very close to the Yamuna is the Purana Qila. This fort is what remains of Humayun’s capital Din Panah, which was rebuilt and named Shergarh by Sher Shah Suri.
It is also believed to be the site of ancient Indraprastha, associated with the epic Mahabharata. Humayun made the beginnings of the gateway and outer walls in 1534, while buildings inside are attributed to Sher Shah. The main entrance is through the double storeyed Bara Darwaza. Two enclosures inside the gate were used by Muslim refugees for shelter during the carnage of 1947.
The Qila-I-Kuhna Masjid was built by Sher Shah in 1541 in the Indo-Afghan style. With five arches, the mosque has white and black marble decorations set against the red sandstone. It is one of the few well-preserved buildings in the fort. An octagonal sandstone tower called Sher Mandal to the south of the mosque was used as an observatory with a view of the river. It also served as a library and one day while rushing down the steep staircase at the muezzin’s call to prayer, Humayun stumbled and fell to his death. Excavations to the south of Sher Mandal revealed Grey Ware pottery, which indicates its antiquity to the time of the Pandavas. A small museum displays artefacts and sculptures from the Mauryan era (321 BC – 104 BC).
Across Mathura Road stands the grey and red Sher Shah’s gate, which was used for entry into Shergarh. Alongside is the Khair-ul-Manzil Masjid, built in 1561 by Mughal Emperor Akbar, and housing a madrasa (Muslim seminary). Surrounding Purana Qila is a moat that used to be fed by water from the Yamuna. Now it is completely dried up except for a small section used for boating. The Delhi Zoo lies below the southern ramparts of Purana Qila. Laid out in extensive grounds with lakes the zoo has over one thousand animals, birds and reptiles, including the big cats. A toy train runs through the zoo, stopping at intervals to allow visitors to climb on or off.
About a kilometre south of Purana Qila, and 4 kms from Connaught Place is the well laid out expanse of the Lodi Gardens. Inside are manicured lawns, walkways and15th and 16th century monuments built by the Lodis. Popular with local residents for early morning walks and yoga, Lodi Gardens is also an ideal backdrop for the Indian classical music concerts that are held here. The Bara Gumbad, or Big dome in the central area is a 15th century tomb along with a mosque. Made of grey and black stones, the interior has painted stucco work. The rectangular prayer hall is decorated with coloured tiles, foliage and Koranic inscriptions.
The Shish Gumbad, Glass Dome, has a glazed dome with some traces of the blue tiles originally used. Built on a raised incline, this late-15th century tomb has friezes decorating the entrance and beneath the cornice. The Tomb of Mohammad Shah of the Sayyid dynasty has sloping buttresses, projecting eaves and lotus patterns on the ceiling. High walls and a surrounding garden enclose Sikandar Lodi’s tomb, built in 1517. The central chamber and verandah are decorated with Hindu motifs. In one corner of Lodi Gardens is the 16th century Athpula (Bridge of 8 piers). It is an ornamental bridge built by one of Akbar’s courtiers.
6 kms. from Connaught Place is the old Muslim area of Nizamuddin, which has now been surrounded by large bungalows of modern Nizamuddin West. The area grew around the shrine of the 14th century Sufi saint Sheikh Nizamuddin Aulia. The Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah was originally built in 1325, and was renovated several times. The Dargah is popular for its evening recitals of qawwali (Sufi devotional songs) and special recitals on Thursdays and during the Urs festivities.
The Jam-at-Khana mosque, with decorated arches, was built by Ala-ud-din-Khilji’s son. Next to the main Dargah are the tombs of some prominent Muslim personalities. The Tomb of Jahanara, emperor Shah Jahan’s favourite daughter is stark and topped only with a filling of grass as per her wishes. The tomb of Amir Khusrau, disciple of Sheikh Nizamuddin Aulia and the founder of the khayal style of classical singing, is made of red sandstone. The tomb of the famous 19th century Urdu poet Mirza Ghalib lies near this complex. While entering the complex, especially the Dargah and mosque make sure your head and limbs are covered, since this is a conservative area.
2 kms from Purana Qila is Humayun’s Tomb. The tomb has an octagonal shape with a 38 metre high double dome, which was perfected in later Mughal buildings.
Strikingly ornamented with contrasting black and white marble on red sandstone, the tomb has pointed arches and recessed windows with carved stone lattice screens. In the central chamber, a cenotaph marks the graves of Humayun and Haji Begum. Besides the main mausoleum other tombs include the Nila Gumbad (Blue Dome) with blue tiles, the tomb of Isa Khan, a courtier of Sher Shah Suri.
5 kms southwest of Connaught Place on Aurobindo Marg is the little visited tomb of Safdarjung. The double-storey mausoleum in red and buff sandstone has marble relief work on the outer walls. A cenotaph marks the place where Safdarjung and his wife lie buried. To the south of Safdarjung’s tomb is the battlefield where Timur’s fearsome army defeated Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq in 1398. Further south, off the same Aurobindo Marg is the area of Hauz Khas, with remains of the second city of Siri. The original village next to a deer park has now been surrounded by a residential colony of the same name. A popular haunt of the glitterati of Delhi, the village has been turned into an ethnic show-piece, with designer shops and theme restaurants sitting next to old village houses along winding by-lanes. The main entrance road goes past to the ruins of Hauz-i-Alai, a large 14th century reservoir that supplied water to Siri.
Originally built during the rule of Ala-ud-din-Khilji, the tank complex was expanded by Firoz Shah Tughlaq who added a double-storeyed madrasa (Muslim seminary) and a mosque. Firoz Shah’s tomb sits at the edge of the tank. Surrounded by high walls, the tomb is stark as compared to other Muslim mausoleums. The reservoir has now run dry, and the bed is used for music and dance festivals and a sound and light show in the evenings.
The Moth ki Masjid, build during the reign of Sikandar Lodi (1488 – 1517) lies 2 kms. from Hauz Khas. Standing on a raised plinth, the mosque has a triple-domed prayer hall and a decorated mihrab (prayer recess). Legend has it that Sikandar Lodi picked up a grain of moth (lentil) from a mosque, which was sown by his minister in a nearby field. The crop multiplied and grew till enough money was earned to build the new mosque. Another interesting monument is the Khirki-ki-Masjid (Mosque of windows), built by Firoz Shah Tughlaq. About 4 kms from the Qutb Minar complex, this mosque is famous for its heavy stone jali (lattice) windows. In an unusual departure from other mosques, the pillared courtyard is covered with a roof capped by domes. An opening in the centre allows light to filter into the dark interiors.
15 kms south east of Connaught Place on the Mehrauli – Badarpur road lies the abandoned city of Tughlaqabad. Only the battlements and some scattered buildings remain of this 14th century citadel. At the southern entrance off the main road stand the high walls of the fort. A long underground passage, ruins of some halls and a tower stand inside. A few traces of the palace and grid-laid streets are visible. A causeway overridden by the main road links the fort to Tughlaq’s tomb. Built on a raised platform, the tomb has sloping walls topped with a marble dome. Remains of a later fort-settlement, Adilabad, can also be seen on a hillock to the southeast of the fort. 11 kms southeast of Connaught Place near Okhla is an Ashokan Rock Edict dating to the 1st century BC. With a ten-line epigraph etched in the ancient Brahmi script, the edict indicates that Delhi was an important link on the trade route of the Mauryan empire.
Nearby, on a small hillock is the famous Lotus Temple of the Baha’i faith. A great tourist attraction, the temple is shaped like a flowering lotus with white marble petals. The petals rise from nine pools interspersed with walkways leading into the temple.
The figure nine symbolises the unifying spiritual paths postulated by the Baha’is. Inside is a large central hall with each petal alcove displaying extracts from Baha’i scriptures. The temple was built between 1980 and 1981 and is the latest of seven Baha’i temples all over the world. The temple is surrounded by well laid out lawns with fountains that come alive at sunset. This is the best time to view the temple, when the entire complex is lit up.
Across the road is the Hindu shrine dedicated to Kalka Devi (mother goddess), popularly known as the Kalkaji temple. Though the temple has no historical significance it is a popular site for the devout, especially during the Navratri celebrations in mid-October.
Delhi also has a cluster of museums with some of the most valuable displays in the country. The largest is the National Museum on Janpath. Begun from the collection of the Exhibition of Indian Art held in London in 1947, the museum has a wide collection of artefacts, sculptures and paintings spanning more than five thousand years from the pre-historic till modern times. The Museum also sells books and postcards on Indian art. Close by is the National Gallery of Modern Art, housed in the palace of the Maharaja of Jaipur. This art museum showcases contemporary Indian art, beginning from 1930. Some of the best works of the Bengal Renaissance artists and the Bombay School are displayed as permanent exhibits. In addition, there are temporary exhibitions of 20th century art from across the country.
The National Museum of Natural History has displays of natural history and ecology, and is of special interest to children. There are creative modelling exercises, film shows and special lectures organised at the Museum from time to time. The Nehru Memorial Museum and Library is at Teen Murti House, the official residence of India’s first Prime Minister Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru. The museum not only displays Nehru’s living quarters and special interests, but also has books and records documenting the independence movement.
The Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum at Safdarjung Road showcases a collection of letters, photographs, and press clippings on the life of Indira Gandhi. It is housed in the apartments where she lived and was assassinated in 1984. A section of the Museum is devoted to her son Rajiv Gandhi, who was also killed brutally by a suicide bomber in 1991.
The National Philatelic Museum is housed in the main Post Office on Sansad Marg. There are special collections and first day covers, including the first stamp issued in India and the stamps issued by princely states before Independence. You can also buy special commemorative stamps from a counter at the post office. Rabindra Bhavan on Copernicus Marg has the three National Academies of Literature, Performing Arts and Fine Arts. A meeting point for intellectuals, the complex has comprehensive libraries and display galleries.
The Crafts Museum next to Pragati Maidan is entirely devoted to folk arts and crafts from across the country. Set in the pattern of a village with mud houses and undulating grounds, the Museum has vivid displays of rural craftsmanship, including woodcraft, paintings, textiles, weaving, metal works and pottery. Craftsmen from different parts of the sub-continent give live demonstrations that are fascinating to watch. You can buy their exquisite handicrafts directly from the artisans or from the museum shop close to the entrance.
Besides these major museums and expositions, Delhi has a whole lot of smaller museums. The Rail Transport Museum at Chanakyapuri, with its steam locomotives and historical carriages, recounts 144 years of rail history in India. The Field Museum of the Archaeological Survey of India in Purana Qila displays coins, pottery, seals and sculptures recovered from the site. The Dolls Museum on Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg has a unique collection of more than 6,000 dolls from all over the world. Tibet House on Lodi Road offers Tibetan literature, besides a display of thangkas (scrolls), old currency, prayer wheels and costumes.
